In the centre of Paris lies an unforgettable visual wonder that came to my attention via word of mouth. “It’s goose bump stuff, you’ve got to see it”, said my friend. The church of Sainte Chapelle lies adjacent to the dreaded Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned prior to her execution, and is situated on the famous Île de la Cité, just round the corner from Notre Dame.
It was my third visit to Paris. I had been unsuccessful on my first and second attempts to enter Ste Chapelle but now I found myself in the queue to enter this thirteenth century marvel that had played host to kings and dauphins throughout its chequered history.
Security is tight, with random bag searches and an unmistakeable police presence. However, once inside this stunning thirteenth-century chapel, the chatter runs silent. Alongside other awestruck visitors, I grew quiet as I gazed in awe at the beautiful interior arches and decorative walls. It was hard to believe that the ground floor was just the warm up act for the famous stained-glass windows in the main chapel upstairs. We headed for the narrow staircase and we were not disappointed.
It was obvious we were Ste Chapelle rookies as my first word on reaching the top of the stairs was “Wow” followed by a gasp. As I walked round the windows, trying to take in each one, I could hear other visitors arriving at the top of the stairs too: “Wow”, followed by a gasp.
In front of me were fifteen of the most intricate stained glass windows I have ever seen (and I am a cathedral junkie). It is rare to see such original glass these days but these are from the thirteenth century, with only a few necessary nineteenth century replacements. The magnificent rose window dominates the room like the head of the family, but it is the height and detail of the tall windows that makes Ste Chappelle so breathtaking.
The chapel was built on the commission of Louis IX, later St Louis, to house the alleged relics of Christ, including the Crown of Thorns. Louis decided that these important relics deserved a fitting surrounding. Ste Chappelle has inspired subsequent architecture and is seen as greatly significant in the history of ecclesiastical décor.
The best time to see the windows is summer, when the light streams through. The chapel is open every day except 1st January, 1st May, and Christmas Day. Joint tickets are available for the chapel and the neighbouring Conciergerie, making this a worthwhile stop on the Parisian list of “must-see” sights.
Further information on planning your visit can be found here.
